When products irritate skin: aren't beauty products labeled "hypoallergenic" not supposed to inflame skin? … and more of your questions answered here - BeautyQ+A

Q I recently used a hypoallergenic serum that left my complexion irritated. Aren't these products supposed to be good for sensitive skin?

A If a new product irritates your skin (stinging and redness are usually the first signs), stop using it immediately. If you suffer from these symptoms and swelling develops 24-36 hours later, you could be allergic to ingredients in that product, explains Karyn Grossman, M.D., a dermatologist with offices in New York City and Los Angeles.

First, though, you should know that hypo is a Latin prefix meaning "less than normal," so hypoallergenic means there are fewer--not no--ingredients in a product that might irritate your skin. The top allergens in beauty products are fragrances, botanicals, dyes and (in cleansers) detergents, so these are often excluded from products labeled "hypoallergenic." But if your skin is unusually sensitive, you may react even to products labeled as hypoallergenic.

Look for dermatologist-recommended products that are dye- and fragrance-free, and ones labeled for sensitive skin. Try Dove's new Sensitive Essentials, a line of cleansers ($7) and moisturizers ($7.49; all at drugstores) formulated with fatty acids to form a protective barrier on skin, making it less prone to irritation. Neutrogena and Purpose (both at drugstores) also offer several choices, from cleansers and moisturizers to masks and exfoliants, for sensitive or easily irritated skin, and Almay's hypoallergenic cosmetics (also at drugstores) are specifically formulated for sensitive skin and are allergytested. If you still have problems, though, consult your dermatologist or an allergist; he or she may be able to pinpoint the specific ingredients that are causing your skin to react.

Q My zit has healed, but I still have a dark spot left in its place. Why--and how can I get rid of it?

A If the leftover mark is red, it could be the result of blood vessels that dilated when the skin was inflamed. The discoloration will fade in one to two months as the blood vessels return to normal, explains Stephen Webster, M.D., a dermatologist at Gundersen Lutheran Medical Center in La Crosse, Wis., and a clinical professor of dermatology at the University of Minnesota.

In some cases, though--especially for people with darker skin tones--extra pigment is generated in the area where the skin was inflamed (the site of the pimple). Although these hyperpigmentation marks (as they're called) are not permanent, they can take four to six months to fade.

The most common ingredient used to help speed up the fading of spots is hydroquinone, which can be prescribed by your doctor, usually in a 4 percent cream, or it can be found in over-the-counter products in a lower concentration (try Peter Thomas Roth Potent Skin Lightening Gel Complex, $50; peterthomasroth.com). Anti-inflammatory botanicals, such as green tea extract, can help blemishes heal faster, while products high in vitamin C and the botanical lightening agent kojic acid work to fade discoloration left behind. Editor's picks: Chanel Precision Performance Anti-Taches dark spot corrector with licorice extract and vitamin C ($75; gloss.com), Aveda Brightening Essence with green tea and soy-derived vitamin E ($45; aveda.com) and Lancome Absolue Anti-Age Spot Serum with wild yam and soy extracts ($95; lancome.com).

It's important to follow product instructions exactly; using a lightening agent at more than the recommended frequency will just irritate your skin, not make the spot fade faster. However, to help these products penetrate, you can exfoliate two to three times a week with an alpha- or beta-hydroxy acid or retinol product (try Neutrogena Pore Refining Cleanser with alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, $6.49; at drugstores) or an at-home peel (like MD Skincare Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel home facial system, $68; mdskincare.com), or see a dermatologist for a microdermabrasion treatment.

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