Sun, rum and fun: savoring the tropical flavors of Caribbean cuisine is the next best thing to being there

Jay Solomon

Savoring the tropical flavors of Carribean cuisine is the next best thing to being there.

When the cold winds howl and the snow piles up against the window, visions of swaying palm trees, sun-drenched beaches and frozen daiquiris dance merrily in my head. But who needs the escape of travel when sensory and emotional rescue is as close as the kitchen. Here, in no time at all, you can transport yourself to paradise by indulging in the tropical flavors of the Caribbean.

The cuisine of the garland of over 7,000 islands stretching 2,600 miles between Florida and Venezuela, is a patchwork of Hispanic, African, Asian, Indian and European traditions. Native exotic fruits and vegetables, such as mangos, papayas and plantains, offer a kaleidoscope of vibrant colors and flavors and form the heart of island cooking.

Versatile mangoes find their way into salsa, stir-fries, salads, chutneys, desserts and frozen drinks. Sweet papayas bring an island nuance to vinaigrettes, dips and dressings. Chayote, a firm, pear-shaped squash, is blended into soups, stews, breads and potato pancakes. Sturdy plantains shaped like monstrous bananas are roasted, sauteed, and added to stews and soups. And fiery native peppers, such as Scotch bonnet and habanero, inspire a wide array of blistering hot sauces.

Caribbean fare also features "comfort food" perfect for the winter solstice. Spicy Sancocho is a hearty, one-pot stew of vegetables, plantains and herbs. Jamaican Cook-Up Rice, a coconut-scented pilaf, makes an aromatic side dish or enticing bed for stews or curries. Jamaican Rum Cake, a dense, moist cake packed with dried fruits, sweet island spices and heavenly rum is perfect for afternoon tea or dessert. For a more flashy dessert, try the Tropical Fruit Flambe.

Even though it's blustery and cold outside, you can warm up inside by enjoying the festive food of the tropics.

Chayote-Potato Cakes

6 SERVINGS OVO-LACTO

In this recipe, chayote, which tastes like a cross between cucumber and zucchini, is shredded with potatoes and blended into skillet vegetable cakes. These cakes make an easy dinner that looks impressive but doesn't require much time. Once cooked, they should be eaten right away.

1 large chayote, shredded (about 2 1/2
cups)
1 large boiling potato, peeled an
shredded (about 2 1/2 cups)
1 small yellow onion, shredded
2 medium eggs, beaten
1/4 cup yellow cornmeal
1/2 tsp. ground turmeric
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. canola oil
Papaya-Avocado Salsa or Mango Salsa

Place chayote, potato and onion in colander and squeeze out excess moisture. Transfer mixture to medium bowl and mix in eggs, cornmeal and seasonings.

In large nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Cook cakes in batches, scooping about 1/2 cup into skillet for each cake and pressing down to form 4- to 5-inch disk. Cook until both sides are lightly browned, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer finished cakes to a warm plate and cover. Repeat with remaining mixture, adding more oil to skillet if necessary. Serve right away with Mango Salsa or Papaya-Avocado Salsa.

PER SERVING: 78 CAL.; 4 G PROT.; 3 G TOTAL FAT (1 G SAT. FAT); 10 G CARB.; 70 MG CHOL.; 216 MG SOD.; 2 G FIBER.

Papaya-Kiwi Vinaigrette

MAKES 2 CUPS VEGAN/HONEY

This unique dressing combines the natural sweetness of tropical fruits with the savory tanginess of vinegar. Serve it over mixed leafy greens, mesclun, or braised or grilled vegetables.

3 ripe kiwi fruits, peeled and diced
1 large ripe papaya, peeled, seeded
and diced
1/3 cup canola oil
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1 Tbs. honey
1/2 tsp. ground white pepper
1/2 tsp. salt

In food processor or blender, combine all ingredients and process until smooth. Pour dressing into a serving container. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

PER TABLESPOON: 29 CAL.; 0 PROT.; 2 G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 2 G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 37 MG SOD.; 0 FIBER.

Vegetable Mango Stir-Fry

4 SERVINGS VEGAN

In the Caribbean, green, semi-ripe mangoes add an incomparable depth of flavor to many dishes. Here, they are combined with bell peppers, mushrooms and tofu for a flavorful stir-fry that is served over noodles.

8 oz. lo mein noodles or rice noodles
2 tsp. peanut oil
2 medium red bell peppers, seeded and
cut into thin strips
8 oz. white mushrooms, sliced
2 large cloves garlic, minced
32 broccoli florets
1 large semi-ripe mango, peeled, pitted
and sliced
4 oz. firm tofu, diced
1/2 cup vegetable stock or canned broth
1/4 cup pineapple juice
3 Tbs. low-sodium soy sauce
2 tsp. sesame oil
1 to 2 Tbs. peanut butter

In large saucepan, bring 3 quarts of water to boil. When water boils, add noodles stirring to prevent sticking. Cook until al dense, stirring occasionally, 4 to 5 min. uses. Drain.

Meanwhile, in large skillet or wok, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add bell peppers, mushrooms and garlic and stir-fry until vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add broccoli, mango and tofu and stir-fry 4 minutes. Stir in vegetable stock, pineapple juice, soy sauce and sesame oil and bring to simmer. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until sauce has thickened, 4 to 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low and blend in peanut butter.

Transfer noodles to serving plates and moon mango and vegetable mixture over top. Serve right away.

PER SERVING : 249 CAL.; 11 G PROT.; 13 G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT); 27 G CARB.; 70 MG CHOL.; 216 MG SOD.; 2G FIBER.

Spicy Sancocho

4 SERVINGS VEGAN

Sancocho, a hearty Caribbean stew, offers a taste of island "comfort food." Serve this meatless version with Jamaican Cook-Up Rice (recipe this page) or any other rice dish. Look for plantains in large supermarkets or Latin or Hispanic food shops.

1 Tbs. canola oil
1 medium yellow onion, diced
1 medium green bell pepper, diced
8 oz. white mushrooms, sliced
1 or 2 jalapeno peppers, seeded
and minced
2 cups vegetable stock, canned broth
or water
14-oz. can stewed tomatoes
2 large carrots, peeled and diced
1 large green plantain, peeled and
coarsely chopped
1 large boiling potato, peeled and
diced
2 Tbs. minced fresh parsley
1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano or 1 tsp.
dried oregano
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. salt

In large pot, heat oil over medium heat Add onion, bell pepper, mushrooms and jalapenos and cook, stirring often, until vegetables begin to soften, about 7 minutes. Stir in vegetable stock, stewed tome toes, carrots, plantain, potato and seasonings and bring to a simmer. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally until potato and carrots are tender, about 25 minutes. Serve hot.

PER SERVING: 198 CAL.; 5 G PROT.; 4 G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 39 G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 1,092 MG SOD.; 5 G FIBER.

Jamaican Cook-Up Rice

4 SERVINGS VEGAN

The term "cook-up" is a Caribbean expression that refers to a dish that incorporates the ingredients you have on-hand in the kitchen. In this version, we combine rice, beans and vegetables with a little coconut milk and curry powder for a zesty tropical flavor.

1 Tbs. canola oil
1 medium yellow onion, diced
1 medium red bell pepper, seeded and
diced
2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 Scotch bonnet pepper, seeded and
minced (optional)
3 1/2 cups water
2 cups uncooked long-grain white rice
1 5-oz. can red kidney beans, rinsed and
drained
1/2 cup canned coconut milk
2 tsp. curry powder
1/2 tsp. dried thyme
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. salt

In large saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion, bell pepper, garlic and Scotch bonnet pepper and cook, stirring often, until vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes.

Stir in water, rice, beans, coconut milk and seasonings and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat, cover arid until rice is tender and liquid is absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes. Fluff rice with fork and let stand, covered, 5 to 10 minutes. Spoon rice onto plates and serve hot.

PER SERVING: 323 CAL.; 9 G PROT.; 3 G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 64 G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 441 MG SOD.; 6 G FIBER.

Tropical Fruit Flambe

4 SERVINGS LACTO

Tropical fruits, with almost all their calories derived from carbohydrates, are a logical starting point for a low-fat dessert. In this recipe, the fruits are sauteed, then doused with dark rum and ignited. When setting aflame, never pour the liquor directly from the bottle into the pan Always measure out the liquor and transfer it to a small pitcher ahead of time.

1/4 cup apple juice
2 Tbs. light brown sugar
1 large ripe mango, peeled, pitted and
sliced
2 ripe medium bananas, peeled and
sliced crosswise
2 large ripe kiwi fruits, peeled and sliced
crosswise
6 to 8 ripe strawberries, sliced (optional)
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 cup dark rum
Splash banana liqueur
2 to 3 cups frozen low-fat vanilla yogurt

In large skillet, combine apple juice and sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until simmering, 4 minutes. Add mango, bananas, kiwi fruits, strawberries and cinnamon and cook, stirring occasionally to coat fruit with juice mixture, 4 minutes.

Remove pan from heat and add rum and liqueur. Return pan to heat and bring to a simmer. Carefully ignite fruit mixture with lighted match. Allow flame to subside and cook 1 minute.

To serve, scoop low-fat frozen yogurt into individual serving bowls and spoon warm fruit over top.

PER SERVING: 295 CAL.; 5 G PROT.; 3 G TOTAL FAT (1 G SAT. FAT); 58 MG CARB.; 10 MG CHOL.; 82 MG SOD.; 5G FIBER.

Jamaican Rum Cake

12 SERVINGS OVO-LACTO

Seductive in flavor, rum-soaked dried fruit makes this cake incredibly moist. It's a popular dessert throughout the islands of the Caribbean.

2 cups coarsely chopped mixed dried
fruit (raisins, apricots, cherries, figs
or dates)
1 cup dark rum
1/2 cup dark beer
2 sticks (1 cup) margarine
3/4 cup packed light or dark brown sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. grated nutmeg
1/2 tsp. ground allspice
3 Tbs. molasses
1 tsp. baking powder
1 1/4 cups all-purpose unbleached flour

Place dried fruit into medium bowl and pour over rum and dark beer. Cover and refrigerate 3 to 4 hours.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a deep 9-inch round cake pan.

Transfer dried fruit mixture with liquid to food processor or blender and process until a smooth pulp is formed, about 10 seconds. Set aside.

In large bowl, beat together margarine and sugar with an electric mixer until well blended. Beat in eggs, vanilla, nutmeg, all-spice, molasses and baking powder. Stir in flour, then pureed fruit until blended.

Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake until toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. Remove to wire rack and let cool to room temperature before serving.

PER SERVING: 349 CAL.; 3 G PROT.; 17 G TOTAL FAT (3 G SAT. FAT); 38 MG CARB.; 35 MG CHOL.; 259 MG SOD.; 2 G FIBER.

Papaya-Avocado Salsa

MAKES 3 CUPS VEGAN 81

Ripe, fresh papaya adds tropical flare to this guacamole-style salsa. It's great as a dip with tortilla chips, fresh vegetables or whole-grain crackers.

2 ripe medium avocados, peeled, pitted
and diced
1 ripe papaya, peeled, halved, seeded,
and diced
1 large ripe tomato, diced
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
2 cloves garlic, minced

RELATED ARTICLE: Tropical Treasures

Chayote (chi-OH-tay): Also called "cho cho," these pal green, pear-shaped squash have a firm, white flesh and mild zucchini-cucumber flavor. Chayote can be prepared like a summer squash and added to soups, stews, breads or skillet cakes. There are one or two seeds in the center which should be removed before cooking.

Mango: These plump, kidney-shaped tropical gems have green skin marked with reddish-orange spots. The orange flesh tastes of pineapple, citrus and nectarine. Like an avocado, a ripe mango should give a little when pressed. Green, unripe mangoes have a crunchy, potato-like texture and should be cooked in savory dishes. To prepare a mango, peek its skin like a potato and slice the flesh off the large pit.

Papaya: Although some papayas grow as large as watermelons, most are the size of a miniature football. This pale green, oblong fruit has a cantaloupe-like flavor. The fruit contains the enzyme "papain" which aids in digestion. To eat, scoop out the inner black seeds and then scoop out the coral flesh.

Plantain: Also called vegetable banana or plantano, plantains must be cooked prior to eating. When green, unripe and firm, they taste like starchy potatoes. Ripe plantains are yellow and discolored but have a sweet, banana-like flesh.

Scotch bonnet pepper: Considered to be one of the hottest chilies in the world, Scotch bonnets have a fiery, scorching heat and floral nuance. Native to the Caribbean, Scotch bonnets come in a rainbow of colors and sleek, curvaceous shapes. It also is known as country pepper, bonney and Bahama mama, and is interchangeable with the habanero pepper. Handle with caution!

Star fruit: Also called carambola, this sweet-and-tart fruit makes a great thirst-quencher. The greenish-yellow version is tart but the bright yellow one is ripe and sweet. When sliced crosswise, the sliced fruit resembles a star.

Soursop: A large, dark oval green fruit with a thick skin that can be shiny or smooth. Its pulp is whitish pink with a sweet, mildly acidic flavor and a thick custard-like texture.

Yuca: Also known as cassava or manioc, the yuca is a long, slim tuber that ranges from 6 to 12 inches in diameter. It has brown barklike skin and very starchy flesh that becomes nearly translucent when cooked.

Look for these items in specialty produce markets or Latin American food stores.

2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
Juice of 1 large lime
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. salt

In medium bowl, combine all ingredients and mash with a large spoon until well-blended. Transfer salsa to serving bowl and serve as a dip with tortilla chips or as a condiment with Chayote-Potato Cakes.

PER 1/4-CUP SERVING: 67 CAL.; 1 G PROT.; 5 G TOTAL FAT (1 G SAT. FAT); 7 MG CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 101 MG SOD.; 3 G FIBER.

Fiery Tomato Salsa

MAKES 2 CUPS VEGAN

This uncooked tomato salsa is nicely balanced despite its fiery heat, which comes from the jewel of the Caribbean, the Scotch bonnet pepper. (Recipe adapted from Great Bowls of Fire by Jay Solomon [Prima Publishing, 1997].)

4 medium tomatoes, diced
1/3 cup chopped red onion
1 medium red bell pepper, seeded and diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 to 1 Scotch bonnet pepper, seeded
and minced
2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
Juice of 1 large lime
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. salt

In medium bowl, mix all ingredients until well-blended. Cover and refrigerate 30 minutes to allow flavors to blend. Serve salsa as a spicy clip, burrito condiment or as a topping to pilafs or rice dishes.

PER 1/4-CUP SERVING: 18 CAL.; 1 G PROT.; 0 TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 4 G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 179 MG SOD; 1 G FIBER.

Mango Salsa

MAKES 2 CUPS VEGAN

Pair this sweet-hot fruity salsa with the Chayote-Potato Cakes or use it as a topping for pita sandwiches, salads, tacos or burritos.

1 large ripe mango, peeled, pitted and
diced
1/4 cup minced red onion
1 small red jalapeno or serrano pepper,
seeded and minced
Juice of 1 large lime
2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. ground white pepper

In medium bowl, mix all ingredients. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes to allow flavors to blend. Serve as a condiment with Chayote-Potato Cakes.

PER 1/4-CUP SERVING: 21 CAL.; 0 PROT.; 0 TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 6 MG CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 182 MG SOD.; 1 G FIBER.

Mango-Apricot Daiquiri

MAKES 3 CUPS/2 SERVINGS VEGAN

A culinary trip to the Caribbean would be incomplete without a tropical frozen drink! Try this refreshing one.

1 large ripe mango, peeled, pitted and
diced
1 cup crushed ice
1/2 cup apricot nectar
1 oz. dark rum
1/2 Oz. apricot liqueur (optional)
Juice of 1/2 lime
2 thin slices of lime

In large blender, combine mango, ice, apricot nectar, rum, optional liqueur and lime juice. Blend until smooth. Pour into two tall glasses and garnish each with a slice of lime.

PER SERVING: 135 CAL.; 1 G PROT.; 0 TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 27 MG CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 4 MG SOD.; 2 G FIBER.

Jay Solomon is the author many cookbooks including A Taste of the Tropics (Crossing Press, 1992) and Great Bowls of Fire (Prima Publishing, 1997).

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