The Place Below. - London, England - restaurant reviews

Despite its reputation for bangers and steak-and-kidney pie, London also can be a haven for vegetarians. From the funky charm of the Neal's Yard shopping and dining areas to the many Indian and other ethnic restaurants, London offers several choices for the visiting hungry veg. One of the best of these is The Place Below, a charming vegetarian/vegan restaurant tucked away in a 17th-century church designed by Sir Christopher Wren, the legendary British architect. Located three blocks from Wren's crowning glory, St. Paul's Cathedral, The Place Below serves cafeteria-style lunches Monday through Friday, as well as candlelight dinners on Thursday and Friday evenings. It is closed Saturday and Sunday.

The lunch crowd of young business professionals fills the cheery front room, while the evening meals are served in the romantic back room (actually an 11th-century Norman crypt). A three-course lunch will run E10 (about $15), but can be less if you are strong enough to resist the delicious desserts. Dinner is prix-fixe at 17.50[pounds] (about $25) for three courses and coffee, including the service charge. Highlights of the lunch menu include a sparkling pickled vegetable and field mushroom salad made with ingradients that seem fresh out of the garden, the fresh baked whole wheat/ sesame rolls, delicate quiches and a not-too-sweet lemon-almond tart. Good strong British tea and excellent coffee (including great decaf) are offered in bottomless cups.

Owner Bill Sewell creates culinary vegetarian magic for the formal dinners. The festive crowd includes many well-heeled, often celebratory "Sloan Rangers" (the British version of yuppies), all eager to dig into some creative vegetarian fare. (The night I was there, a boisterous birthday party was in full swing.) A vegan carrot and artichoke soup, filling and rich-tasting despite the absence of cream, was an exceptional starter. The other choice was a bright, fresh avocado and nori salad; if the dressing was available in bottles, I'd have spirited away half a dozen to enhance my salads back in the United States.

The entrees were generous, satisfying combinations of rich flavors: A marvelous stir-fry combined spinach, red peppers and cashew nuts in black been sauce with basmati rice; saffron and basil pancakes stuffed with a savory mixture of roasted eggplant and ricotta cheese, topped with plum tomato sauce and accompanied by a mixed salad and new potatoes. Waiters proffer slices of an addictive onion/herb bread that is difficult to stop eating.

The restaurant has no liquor license, but bottles brought from home are treated with care. The Place Below also offers a wonderful homemade lemonade, freshly squeezed orange juice and a sparkling elderflower drink for the adventuresome. Take your time lingering over dessert; treats like baked bananas with passionfruit sauce, apple frangipane tart, and brandied bread and butter pudding are the perfect endings to a memorable vegetarian feast.

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