Martin Yan cooks up a Chinese feast: celebrate the year of the boar with dishes from the famed PBS chef - includes recipes - Cover Story

FOR ME, the new year begins not on Jan. 1, but at the end of the month when the Chinese celebrate the start of year 4673, the Year of the Boar. In China, where I was born, the festivities--in which food plays a large part--begin Jan. 31 and last for several days.

A new year's meal typically features at least eight dishes. The number eight in Chinese sounds much like the Chinese word for 100, and it symbolizes "hundredfold" or "multiple" forms of plenty. Symbols also play a role in the food served with different dishes representing all of the best for the new year: prosperity, abundance, good fortune, tolerance and youth. (See menu, p. 36) But whether or not the dishes bring such tidings, I am certain that their tastes and textures will bring delight.

MENU

Spring Rolls (representing gold bars)

Buddhist Delight (for prosperity)

Crystal Wrap (for prosperity and good fortune)

Chinese Broccoli with Imperial Sauce (for youth and wealth)

Firecracker Bean Curd (for remembrance of heritage and tolerance)

Mock Clams with Black Bean Sauce (for prosperity and good fortune in business and life)

Red-Envelope Mock Fish (for abundance)

Fresh Fruits and Lucky Dumplings (kumquats, tangerines, organe, pomelo and pomegranates represent wealth and continuity; dumplings represent good luck)

Spring Rolls

These appetizers are traditionally deep-fried, but you can also bake or steam them with good results.

1 to 2 Tbs. canola oil

2 1 1/2-inch slices giner, julienned

(about 2 Tbs.)

6 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked

until soft and thinly sliced

2 stalks celery, julienned or diced

1 large carrot, julienned or shredded

1 1/2 cups shredded cabbage

3 oz. firm tofu, cut into small cubes

or julienned

2 green onions, diced

1 Tbs. soy sauce

2 tsp. sesame oil

1/2 tsp. salt

1/2 tsp. sugar

1/2 tsp. white pepper

12 spring roll or eggroll wrappers

1 Tbs. cornstarch dissolved

in 2 Tbs. water

2 cups canola oil for deep-frying

HEAT OIL IN WOK or very large sillet over high heat. Add ginger and mushrooms; cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add celery, carrot, cabbage, tofu and green onions; stir-fry about 2 minutes. Add soy sauce, seasme oil, salt, sugar and white pepper; mix well. Remove work or skillet from heat and let cool.

Lay 1 wrapper on work surface with 1 corner toward you. Cover remaining wrappers with damp cloth to prevent drying. Place 1/3 cup vegetable mixture in a line across center of wrapper. Fold bottom corner of wrapper over vegetable mixture. Fold in left and right corners. With a pastry brush, brush top corner and side edges of wrapper with cornstarch solution. Roll wrapper to form a tight cylinder. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling.

If deep-frying, heat oil in wok or large deep skillet. (Oil must be very hot, about 360 degrees.) Gently place 1 or 2 spring rolls in oil. Cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown on all sides, about 3 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels. Keep warm in oven while cooking remaining spring rolls.

Serve with sauce of your choice. Try sweet and sour, hoisin (see glossary) or soy sauce mixed with a little chili oil. Makes 12 spring rolls.

VARIATIONS: Alternatively, you can bake or steam spring rolls. Spray a baking sheet with cooking spray, place rolls on baking sheet and lightly spray rolls with cooking spray. Bake at 400 degrees until golden brown, about 10 minutes.

*To steam, place bamboo steamer over boiling water. Place spring rolls in steamer, cover and steam until done, about 10 minutes.

PER SPRING ROLL: 108 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 4G FAT; 18G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 274MG SOD.; 1G FIBER. OVO-LACTO

Buddhist Delight

You can always find this dish on Chinese restaurant menus. It traditionally contains dried black moss, dried bean curd (tofu) stick and ginkgo nuts, but my simplified version is just as good and is easy to prepare.

Sauce:

2/3 cup vegetable broth

2 Tbs. soy sauce

2 tsp. sesame oil

1 1/2 tsp. sugar

1/2 tsp. salt

1/4 tsp. white pepper

Stir-fry:

1 to 2 Tbs. canola oil

1 tsp. minced garlic

1 tsp. minced ginger

3 green onions, cut into 1-inch

pieces

8 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked

until soft and thinly sliced

1 carrot, thinly sliced

1/4 cup julienned bamboo shoots

1/2 cup sliced water chestnuts

15-oz. can baby corn, drained

1/2 lb. snow peas

1/2 lb. napa cabbage (see glossary),

cut into 1-inch by 2-inch pieces

2 oz. dried bean thread noodles (see

glossary) broken into 4-inch

pieces and soaked in warm

water to cover

1/2 lb. firm tofu, cut into 1-inch

cubs.

SAUCE: Combine all ingredients in a bowl; set aside.

STIR-FRY: Heat oil in work or large deep skillet over high heat. Add garlic, ginger, green onions and mushrooms; stir-fry 1 minute. Add carrot, bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, corn, peas and cabbage; cook about 2 minutes.

Add sauce, cover and cook 5 minutes. Drain noodles, and add to work with tofu. Reduce heat to low and cook until most of sauce is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Serve as is or over rice. Makes 6 servings.

PER SERVING: 204 CAL.; 9G PROT.; 7G FAT; 26G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 328MG SOD.; 7G FIBER. VEGAN

Crystal Wrap

These lettuce rolls are much like cabbage rolls, but the lettuce stays cold and crisp against the stir-fried filling.