Making waves with grains: chefs give entrees signature twists with interesting varieties and inventive preparations

Nation's Restaurant News,  July 15, 2002  by Amy Zuber

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Grains, an age-old staple throughout the world, often are referred to as the edible seed or fruit of various food pants. Common varieties range from corn and bailey to wheat and oats, but a growing number of chefs prefer to feature more interesting options, such as quinoa and faro. Others enjoy inventing new twists on more traditional preparations.

Linton Hopkins, chef de cuisine at D.C. Coast in Washington, D.C., says he makes it a priority to keep the kitchen well stocked with a multitude of grains.

"Since we run a lot of specials, it is important for me to go into a dry storage area and see a lot of options," Hopkins says. "Grains are so versatile, and they absorb flavors well."

Bruce Sherman, chef-partner of North Pond in Chicago, agrees. "Some grains cook slowly, and others cook quickly. Some have more [starch] to them, and others are leaner. The difference between one grain and the next can be great, but they are all pretty interesting in their own way."

Sherman says he approaches grains "as a flavor and textural component. They add nice body to a dish."

North Pond has on its menu roasted semolina with grilled monkfish wrapped in bacon. For that dish Sherman uses cracked semolina, which, he says, is similar to couscous. He roasts the semolina in a pan over high heat for five to 10 minutes with olive oil to give the semolina "a more interesting texture," which is rough and crunchy on the outside.

"People are used to having fluffy couscous," he says.

After roasting the semolina, he then gradually adds chicken stock and onions. "We finish it with wild ramp stems that we saute and toss in herbs. We wrap it in a ramp leaf and then serve it with the monkfish."

The summer menu at North Pond often features a warm grain salad made from quinoa and faro that is served with either chicken or guinea hen. Sherman says he prepares the grains separately. He sautes the faro with shallots and onions and then slowly adds stock "little by little" until it is cooked.

"The faro is cooked like risotto," he explains, "but the quinoa is cooked more like rice. We add the stock all at once and steam it until it is finished. Then for the plate we mix them together and add herbs, tomatoes and butter."

Quinoa was a staple of the ancient Incas, according to The New Food Lover's Companion, which says the ingredient remains an important food in South American cuisine and contains more protein than any other grain.

Faro commonly is defined as a type of hard wheat that also is known as spelt. It has been grown and used in Italy since Roman times. Craig Stoll, chef-owner of Delfina in San Francisco, says he uses faro in several different preparations because he likes the, grain's flexibility.

Stoll serves faro in soup made with white bean puree, rosemary and sage. In another dish Stoll prepares a pilaf with faro that he serves with grilled swordfish. He also marinates faro in champagne vinaigrette before cooking it and serves it with grilled artichokes and mozzarella.

The chef describes faro as "a grain that is similar to barley and is Italian in origin with a nutty flavor."

Stoll says "most grains, especially faro, add an earthy element and give a grounding feel to a dish.

"We also make 'farotto,' which involves, preparing faro like risotto," Stoll says. He sautes onions with faro before adding white wine to chicken stock and butter.

"The preparation kicks off the starch and gives it a bit of creaminess. It is a creamy, grainy dish, and we serve it with a slow-roasted pork shoulder."

Bomboa in Boston features black quinoa on wild mushroom ravioli in a miso pumpkin broth.

Executive chef and co-owner Felino Samson prepares a salad with black quinoa, edamame, pumpkin seeds and shiitake mushrooms that is served on top of giant, 5-inch ravioli.

"The quinoa is smaller than the pumpkin seeds so they give different mouth feels," Samson says. He explains that black quinoa "adds beautiful color contrast on the plate. Plus, it is something that you don't see that often."

Nonetheless, customers still yearn for comfort foods when it comes to grains. That is why D.C. Coast's Hopkins says several dishes at this Washington restaurant feature grits made from stone-ground corn.

When preparing grits, Hopkins first boils chicken stock and milk. Then he adds the grits and cooks them for 45 minutes to one hour. "I let the consistency get thick, and then I add butter, cream and salt to thicken it out," he says. "The fat softens it up a bit." The grits are served underneath shrimp that have been sauteed with onions, garlic, bell peppers and bacon.

"Grits work with everything," Hopkins says. "They work great with white, flaky fish, like grouper, and with salmon or pork chops or steak. They are a great starting point for lots of recipes."

Sometimes Hopkins makes small cakes out of the grits. For that preparation he cooks the grits with only a touch of cream to prevent them from becoming too loose, and then he spreads them on a sheet pan and refrigerates them until they are chilled.