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Sun, rum and fun: savoring the tropical flavors of Caribbean cuisine is the next best thing to being there

Vegetarian Times,  Jan, 1998  by Jay Solomon

Savoring the tropical flavors of Carribean cuisine is the next best thing to being there.

When the cold winds howl and the snow piles up against the window, visions of swaying palm trees, sun-drenched beaches and frozen daiquiris dance merrily in my head. But who needs the escape of travel when sensory and emotional rescue is as close as the kitchen. Here, in no time at all, you can transport yourself to paradise by indulging in the tropical flavors of the Caribbean.

The cuisine of the garland of over 7,000 islands stretching 2,600 miles between Florida and Venezuela, is a patchwork of Hispanic, African, Asian, Indian and European traditions. Native exotic fruits and vegetables, such as mangos, papayas and plantains, offer a kaleidoscope of vibrant colors and flavors and form the heart of island cooking.

Versatile mangoes find their way into salsa, stir-fries, salads, chutneys, desserts and frozen drinks. Sweet papayas bring an island nuance to vinaigrettes, dips and dressings. Chayote, a firm, pear-shaped squash, is blended into soups, stews, breads and potato pancakes. Sturdy plantains shaped like monstrous bananas are roasted, sauteed, and added to stews and soups. And fiery native peppers, such as Scotch bonnet and habanero, inspire a wide array of blistering hot sauces.

Caribbean fare also features "comfort food" perfect for the winter solstice. Spicy Sancocho is a hearty, one-pot stew of vegetables, plantains and herbs. Jamaican Cook-Up Rice, a coconut-scented pilaf, makes an aromatic side dish or enticing bed for stews or curries. Jamaican Rum Cake, a dense, moist cake packed with dried fruits, sweet island spices and heavenly rum is perfect for afternoon tea or dessert. For a more flashy dessert, try the Tropical Fruit Flambe.

Even though it's blustery and cold outside, you can warm up inside by enjoying the festive food of the tropics.

Chayote-Potato Cakes

6 SERVINGS OVO-LACTO

In this recipe, chayote, which tastes like a cross between cucumber and zucchini, is shredded with potatoes and blended into skillet vegetable cakes. These cakes make an easy dinner that looks impressive but doesn't require much time. Once cooked, they should be eaten right away.

1 large chayote, shredded (about 2 1/2
cups)
1 large boiling potato, peeled an
shredded (about 2 1/2 cups)
1 small yellow onion, shredded
2 medium eggs, beaten
1/4 cup yellow cornmeal
1/2 tsp. ground turmeric
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. canola oil
Papaya-Avocado Salsa or Mango Salsa

Place chayote, potato and onion in colander and squeeze out excess moisture. Transfer mixture to medium bowl and mix in eggs, cornmeal and seasonings.

In large nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Cook cakes in batches, scooping about 1/2 cup into skillet for each cake and pressing down to form 4- to 5-inch disk. Cook until both sides are lightly browned, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer finished cakes to a warm plate and cover. Repeat with remaining mixture, adding more oil to skillet if necessary. Serve right away with Mango Salsa or Papaya-Avocado Salsa.

PER SERVING: 78 CAL.; 4 G PROT.; 3 G TOTAL FAT (1 G SAT. FAT); 10 G CARB.; 70 MG CHOL.; 216 MG SOD.; 2 G FIBER.

Papaya-Kiwi Vinaigrette

MAKES 2 CUPS VEGAN/HONEY

This unique dressing combines the natural sweetness of tropical fruits with the savory tanginess of vinegar. Serve it over mixed leafy greens, mesclun, or braised or grilled vegetables.

3 ripe kiwi fruits, peeled and diced
1 large ripe papaya, peeled, seeded
and diced
1/3 cup canola oil
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1 Tbs. honey
1/2 tsp. ground white pepper
1/2 tsp. salt

In food processor or blender, combine all ingredients and process until smooth. Pour dressing into a serving container. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

PER TABLESPOON: 29 CAL.; 0 PROT.; 2 G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 2 G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 37 MG SOD.; 0 FIBER.

Vegetable Mango Stir-Fry

4 SERVINGS VEGAN

In the Caribbean, green, semi-ripe mangoes add an incomparable depth of flavor to many dishes. Here, they are combined with bell peppers, mushrooms and tofu for a flavorful stir-fry that is served over noodles.

8 oz. lo mein noodles or rice noodles
2 tsp. peanut oil
2 medium red bell peppers, seeded and
cut into thin strips
8 oz. white mushrooms, sliced
2 large cloves garlic, minced
32 broccoli florets
1 large semi-ripe mango, peeled, pitted
and sliced
4 oz. firm tofu, diced
1/2 cup vegetable stock or canned broth
1/4 cup pineapple juice
3 Tbs. low-sodium soy sauce
2 tsp. sesame oil
1 to 2 Tbs. peanut butter

In large saucepan, bring 3 quarts of water to boil. When water boils, add noodles stirring to prevent sticking. Cook until al dense, stirring occasionally, 4 to 5 min. uses. Drain.

Meanwhile, in large skillet or wok, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add bell peppers, mushrooms and garlic and stir-fry until vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add broccoli, mango and tofu and stir-fry 4 minutes. Stir in vegetable stock, pineapple juice, soy sauce and sesame oil and bring to simmer. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until sauce has thickened, 4 to 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low and blend in peanut butter.