Change Nintendo Switch NAT Type for Better Gaming

If your online play feels like a party you weren’t actually invited to, or if you’re stuck on “Unable to connect” when trying to join a match, chances are your Nintendo Switch is affected by what’s called a “NAT type.” Here, we’ll discuss how to change Nintendo Switch NAT type to help you get back into the game. Then here comes the bouncer.

The object is not to “make the internet faster.” It’s so your console is easier to reach for peer-to-peer games. This guide provides you with a field-tested, three-level plan that eschews random tinkering and gets you to stable play with fewer surprises.

What NAT Type Really Means on Nintendo Switch

NAT (Network Address Translation) determines how easily other players can communicate with you. On Nintendo Switch, the test displays a letter:

• Type A or B: Best for most games, widest compatibility.
• Type C: Players with Type A can play; others may struggle.
• Type D: Works with only a limited range of types; generally supports Type A players.
• Type E or F: Severely limited or fails to connect with others.

Reality check: No “better” NAT type will reduce your ping or increase your download speed. It really just affects who you can match with and how consistently sessions start, hold, and remain connected.

The Three-Layer Fix Ladder for Better Switch NAT

Apply this ladder from lightest to strongest. If a layer doesn’t solve it, move up to the next phase. Now open System Settings > Internet > Test Connection after each change to see your NAT type.

Layer 1 Switch-Side Tweaks

• Check the baseline: Run Test Connection, and note your NAT type, SSID, and connection method (Wi‑Fi or wired).
• Pick 5 GHz on the Switch: Go to Network Settings and select your 5 GHz SSID. It minimizes interference that may cause peer session disruptions.
• Attempt a wired adapter: A USB LAN adapter for the dock eliminates Wi‑Fi quirks and frequently leads to more stable NAT.
• MTU check: Adjust the MTU to 1500 in your network’s Change Settings on the Switch. If your ISP employs tunnels or your router does fragmentation, try 1450 or 1472. A proper MTU can prevent silent matchmaking failures.
• Forget and re-join the network: Re‑authentication helps clear up stale sessions, a common cause of Type D/E surprises.

If you got a Type B or better here, you’re good. If not, move to your router.

Layer 2 Router Controls That Actually Matter

• Get rid of double NAT: If you have a modem/router combo and your own router, you could be dealing with NAT twice. Put the ISP device in bridge mode, or put your router in bridge (AP) mode so you have only one box doing NAT.
• Assign the Switch a reserved IP: On your router, create a DHCP reservation for the Switch’s MAC address. That relatively stable LAN IP is a bonus for the next steps.
• Turn on UPnP: Many routers won’t open ports automatically unless UPnP is enabled. Turn on UPnP, restart your router, and test the Switch again. If your router supports both features, the current guidance is to leave them on unless your ISP explicitly forbids it.
• DMZ the Switch (as a controlled test): Point your router’s DMZ to the Switch’s reserved IP, retest, and see if you get A/B. If it works, replace DMZ with specific port rules or keep DMZ if you’re comfortable—consoles run limited services and are less exposed than a PC. Never DMZ a general‑use computer.
• Check router NAT behavior: Some routers have options like “NAT Filtering: Open vs. Secured” or “Cone vs. Symmetric NAT.” Games prefer open/cone behavior. Try the less limited one and check the NAT type.
• Disable client isolation: If the SSID has “AP Isolation” or “Wireless Isolation” enabled, peer connections may fail. Make sure it’s turned off on the gaming network.

If none of this gets you to B or A, the gatekeepers are probably your ISPs. On to Layer 3.

Layer 3 ISP Realities and Workarounds

• Look for carrier‑grade NAT (CGNAT): Your router’s WAN IP address is a good place to start. If it’s a private range (typically 10.x.x.x or 100.64.x.x–100.127.x.x) and your public IP is different, you’re behind CGNAT. In that case, you’re not reachable from the outside (obviously), and NAT is C/D/E/F no matter what you do at home.
• Request a public IPv4: Some ISPs can take you off CGNAT or sell you a static IP. This one change will often get you to Type B/A without any other adjustments.
• Modem bridging: If your ISP device is a router/NAT router, ask for bridge mode so the public IP goes to your own router and you can directly deal with ports.
• Router VPN with port forwarding: If you can’t get a public IP address from your ISP, setting up a VPN at the router level that includes incoming port forwarding is an alternative. Note: the Switch itself has no inherent VPN capabilities—this must be done at the router. Keep an eye on extra latency and use the closest endpoints.

These ISP‑level changes are the most aggressive. A five‑minute phone call can fix what hours of home tinkering won’t.

Rapid Diagnostics That Save Hours of Troubleshooting

• Hotspot litmus test: Connect the Switch to a hotspot on a phone. If it goes to B/A, then either your home router or ISP is doing the blocking.
• Wired vs. Wi‑Fi: If wired gives you a better NAT type, you’re likely hitting Wi‑Fi quirks or isolation features on your SSID.
• Time‑of‑day test: CGNAT assignments and carrier policies can differ. If you’re having more trouble at night, your carrier’s route is the limiting factor.
• Second‑router sanity check: Try a router from another brand, plug it in place of the modem (bridge the ISP device if needed), enable UPnP, and retest. Some routers handle cone NAT better than others.
• One‑change rule: Change one thing, test, and go. Layering many changes obscures the remedy.

Two Real-World Playbooks for Common Switch NAT Issues

Apartment Wi‑Fi With Combo Modem

• Symptoms: Type D/E; lobby failures are very common; the WAN address of the router is private.
• Steps: Contact the company to put it in bridge mode or ask for a public IPv4 address. On your personal home router, reserve the Switch’s IP, then enable UPnP and try again. If you’re still stuck, DMZ the Switch’s IP. This route frequently converts D to B/A.

Rural Fixed Wireless on CGNAT

• Symptoms: Type C/D no matter what you try; router WAN shows 100.64.x.x.
• Steps: Ask for a public IP add‑on, or use port forwarding through a router VPN and connect to a nearby server. Expect B after the change. If at all possible, stay wired; radio links introduce additional delays as it is.

Myths, Risks, and Smarter Defaults for Safer Gaming

• NAT type doesn’t lower your ping: It widens the circle of who you can connect to. Latency is a function of route quality and distance.
• UPnP is not a flat risk when scoped: Many people leave UPnP enabled on a home router for consoles. If you run servers or untrusted software on PCs, allow UPnP only on a “gaming” VLAN or SSID.
• DMZ is acceptable for a console: DMZing the reserved IP of a Switch—temporarily or even long term—is far less risky than DMZing a computer. Nonetheless, use a strong Wi‑Fi password and keep your router firmware updated.
• Fixing Switch NAT type won’t work with IPv6: The Nintendo Switch depends on NAT type for peer‑to‑peer games. Your IPv6 configuration has little to do with your NAT type.

A Basic Checklist You Can Repurpose for Switch NAT

• Switch: Use 5 GHz or wired, tune the MTU, and re‑join the network.
• Router: Single NAT (no double NAT), DHCP reservation for the Switch, UPnP on, isolation off.
• Test DMZ on the Switch’s IP; if that works, leave DMZ or try more specific port rules.
• ISP: If WAN is private, use public IPv4 or a VPN to get ports forwarded at the router.
• Retest after each change, but stop once you get to Type B or better.

When to Stop Tweaking and Enjoy Stable Online Play

When you get to Type B, most things are fine with peer connections and matchmaking flows. Little gameplay differs between B and A because stability matters more than a letter. If your games are joining quickly, keeping a steady connection, and voice chat works, lock that setup in place and enjoy.

If it helps, think of your NAT type as a shipping port: if boats can dock quickly and get in and out without issue, you have a good, safe harbor. With the layered technique above, you can change your Nintendo Switch NAT type the practical way—one deliberate fix at a time, without any guesswork.