When your phone or laptop says “Failed to obtain IP address,” it’s not just being a brat. It’s stuck mid-handshake. Imagine accessing Wi‑Fi as if you’re checking in at a hotel: you say hello to the receptionist (the router), she checks your name (the Wi‑Fi password) and hands over your room key (your IP address). It is a mistake that in this case would have let you through the door but for which the data didn’t work out as expected.
Here is a direct, original approach that avoids random toggling. You’ll apply a simple “diagnosis loop” and do the “handshake ladder” to find out precisely on which rung things break — and then fix it in no time.
- The two-minute diagnosis loop to isolate device versus router
- The Handshake Ladder You Can See In Your Mind
- Device‑side fixes that do in fact address DHCP
- Purge And Rejoin With A Clean Identity
- Look for The MAC Address Setting
- Reload The Lease Manually Without A Full Reboot
- More From The Band And Security
- Router-side fixes that unclog DHCP and prevent lease issues
- Expand or Clean The DHCP Pool
- Disable Client Limits and Old Filters
- When One’s Enough: Confirm One DHCP Server Per LAN
- Reboot to Flush the ARP and Lease Tables
- Advanced but quick wins to resolve stubborn DHCP errors
- You Can Also Use A Static IP For Troubleshooting
- Tame Transition Modes And Width
- Remove Hidden SSID And Client Isolation
- Frequently overlooked situations that mimic DHCP problems
- A pocket decision tree you’ll remember for DHCP failures
- When It’s Time To Reset — And What To Save First
- Why this method works to fix failed IP address errors
The two-minute diagnosis loop to isolate device versus router
Run this fast loop before deep dives. It isolates the issue down to whether it’s your device or the router.
- Turn off and on Wi‑Fi, then try another network (like a phone hotspot). If the device is able to connect to a different network properly, there might not be anything wrong with your device; troubleshoot the router.
- Test with another device using the same Wi‑Fi. When it connects without complaining, your router is okay and the problem must be with the other device.
- Reboot only what failed: just the one device, if that’s where it failed, or your router, if all of them do on this network.
“Now that you made that split test, rather than doing educated guesses on what we should fix, you can be more precise.”
The Handshake Ladder You Can See In Your Mind
Picture five rungs. Most of the time you screw up between Rung 2 and 3.
- Step 1: Radio Link — Your device and the access mesh chat (signal, band, channel width).
- Step 2: Wi‑Fi Auth — Accepted the password and security suite (WPA2/WPA3 settings).
- Step 3: IP Lease — Router’s DHCP provides an address (Discover/Offer/Request/Ack).
- Tier 4: Gateway Reach — Your device communicates with the router (ARP and routing).
- Stride 5: Name Lookups — DNS looks up sites (not your issue, but friendly to have anyway).
“Failed to obtain IP address” is where the ladder falls off Rung 3. Fixes, then, should address DHCP, addressing and anything that makes identity on the network confusing.
Device‑side fixes that do in fact address DHCP
Purge And Rejoin With A Clean Identity
Forgetting the network is more powerful than just resetting the password. It flushes caches of settings such as randomized MAC addresses and old IP info. Ignore the network, turn Airplane Mode on for 5 seconds, turn it off and reconnect. This makes a new DHCP request instead of using old data.
Look for The MAC Address Setting
Newer hardware can have a random MAC (Private Address) per network. That’s excellent for privacy, but it can trip up routers with MAC filters, reservations or congested DHCP pools. Toggle the setting once: if it’s on, switch it off for that SSID and disconnect; if it’s off, turn it on then reconnect. You’re synchronizing the device identity to what the router is expecting.
Reload The Lease Manually Without A Full Reboot
Instead of rebooting, give this rapid stack nudge a try: turn Wi‑Fi off, wait 10 seconds and turn it back on while standing very close to the router. On most hardware that kicks off a Discover/Request burst at strong signal, preventing the timeout mid‑negotiation on weak links.
More From The Band And Security
A few devices have trouble when the network is set to use WPA3 in transition mode or crowded 2.4 GHz channels. If the 5 GHz SSID is available, try connecting to it for now. If your router names 2.4 and 5 GHz separately, try either one of them. Sometimes it will bounce the connection during that process, so be sure to turn off “Auto Reconnect” on the device for those duplicate SSIDs.
Router-side fixes that unclog DHCP and prevent lease issues
Expand or Clean The DHCP Pool
Pool fatigue is the most common, least spoken-of culprit. Example: your router gives 192.168.1.100–192.168.1.150 out to computers. For those of you who host guests, smart plugs, and TVs: the pool may fill or stick because of “sticky” leases that have not yet expired. Increase the pool (e.g., .50–.200) or reduce the lease time. Click OK and Apply, then reconnect.
Disable Client Limits and Old Filters
Lots of routers have some sort of maximum client limit, MAC filters or parental controls that silently deny new leases. Disable client limiters and clear the blocklist for this device, and make sure that the guest network is not isolated from DHCP (some do this, only allowing internet after portal acceptance).
When One’s Enough: Confirm One DHCP Server Per LAN
Two DHCP servers is insanity on the same network. In case you’ve brought any additional mesh nodes, an extra router or a powerline Wi‑Fi extender onto the network, make sure your main router is the only device running DHCP. If you have additional units, configure them as bridge mode or access point, not router. Then restart the network so devices ask for new leases from a single source of truth.
Reboot to Flush the ARP and Lease Tables
Routers have ARP and lease tables that expire. A complete reboot of the router flushes these while preserving settings. If your interface provides a way to restart just the DHCP service, do that first—it’s quicker and addresses the problem specifically.
Advanced but quick wins to resolve stubborn DHCP errors
You Can Also Use A Static IP For Troubleshooting
Assigning a temporary static IP will tell you whether it is only the DHCP. With my router, it was after the first round of setup questions. Find your router’s LAN subnet (usually 192.168.1.x or 192.168.0.x). Select an address within the subnet, but not contained in the DHCP pool (e.g., if your pool is .50–.200, pick .10). Fill Subnet Mask with 255.255.255.0 (usually default) and Gateway with the router IP address (usually something like .1). If you can ping the router and surf now, DHCP was your problem—not Wi‑Fi. Remove the static IP after testing so you won’t create a conflict in the future.
Tame Transition Modes And Width
WPA3 transitioning and 40 MHz width in the 2.4 GHz band can be confusing to older clients. Put the security at WPA2‑PSK (AES only), turn off WPS and fix the 2.4 GHz channel width to 20 MHz for now. Then test again. If leases start working, adjust security or width later and verify stability.
Remove Hidden SSID And Client Isolation
Hidden SSIDs and “AP Isolation” can break assumptions some devices make when doing DHCP. Unhide the network and disable client isolation as a test. If all is ok you can re‑enable selectively once you have identified the culprit.
Frequently overlooked situations that mimic DHCP problems
IP Conflict By A Static Device
It was propagated by entities such as printers, NAS or cameras with a hard‑coded IP inside the DHCP pool, which would cause the router to offer an address that is already in use, making the lease request fail. Scan your router’s device list; if you see any duplicates or “unknown” entries, take out devices that are static from the pool or assign DHCP reservations instead.
Guest Network With Split Rules
Some of the guest modes actually allow you to associate but do not enable DHCP until after the captive page is acknowledged. If your device doesn’t see that page, then it appears as a bad IP lease. Test by moving over to the primary SSID or temporarily turning off the guest portal to confirm.
Date And Time Skew
Very incorrect device or router time may conflict with some security configurations and portals. Sync the time on both. Although time never quite causes home DHCP to completely fail, fixing that definitely eliminates one subtle source of mid‑handshake weirdness.
A pocket decision tree you’ll remember for DHCP failures
- Works on other Wi‑Fi? → Device OK → Focus on router DHCP pool, client limits and only one DHCP source.
- Other devices work here? → Router is good → Forget the network, check MAC randomization, rejoin the password if necessary or set up WPA2 Personal.
- Still stuck? → Test with a temporary static IP → Internet working = it’s the DHCP; change something in the pool, leases or shut down all other servers.
When It’s Time To Reset — And What To Save First
If your tests show all signs pointing to the device but nothing works, reset network settings on that device. This will wipe saved SSIDs and also custom DNS settings, so be sure to take note of anything important before you do this.
- If everything else is pointing to the router and DHCP continues to not work after the pool changes and reboots: back up that router’s config, then factory reset and restore just the basic settings (SSID, password, internet settings).
- Re‑add extras (guest networks and reservations) one at a time to see which one was the trigger.
Why this method works to fix failed IP address errors
There’s just too many extra variables created through random toggling. The two-minute loop serves as a guide for where to look. The handshake ladder echelons solutions down to the precise rung—you are thinking about the pool, the lease table and the MAC behavior of your device, not some other setting. If necessary an additional static IP test can be used to validate that the radio link is OK and only the lease exchange is broken. That is how you get to resolve the failed to obtain IP address error with no guessing.