Family Christmas in New Orleans

Discover the wonderful traditions of the Hartson family as they celebrate this special day.

Joan and Maurice Hartson III (known as Mama Joanie and Bubby to family and friends) always host a magnificent celebration on Christmas Day at their historic home on Prytania Street in New Orleans. Surrounded by their daughters, sons-in-law, and 14 grandchildren (ages 3 to 12), they fill the hours with cherished and unique family traditions and delicious food.

For example, Bubby's family started a tradition of hanging the Christmas tree from the ceiling. "When I was a young boy, my mother asked me where we should put the Christmas tree that year. I responded, sort of kidding, that we should hang it from the ceiling," Bubby recalls. "So we did." Bubby and Mama Joanie continue this creative tradition in their living room, as does their daughter Connie.

The day starts with a flurry of pajama-clad kids and adults opening presents with squeals of joy. With 24 folks involved, the scene can be chaotic, but Mama Joanie sees to it that everything runs smoothly. Following their standard Christmas Day schedule, the group nibbles on brunch items well into the afternoon, some imbibing a bit of Christmas cheer. Then everyone retires for a short rest. Late in the afternoon, the family gathers for a large feast-the adults in the beautiful dining room, the kids around their own decorated table in the family room. True to their South Louisiana heritage, they always enjoy stuffed mirlitons, cornbread dressing with andouille sausage, and a twist on smoked turkey and Jezebel sauce. Pralines round out the menu. As the day comes to an end, the entire Hartson clan gives thanks for the abundant blessings of another wonderful Christmas filled with treasured family memories and traditions.

CRANBERRY JEZEBEL SAUCE

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

PREP: 5 MIN., COOK: 15 MIN.

This fabulous sauce doubles as an appetizer when poured over cream cheese and served with assorted crackers.

1 cup water

½ cup granulated sugar

½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar

1 (12-ounce) bag fresh or frozen cranberries

½ cup pineapple preserves

3 tablespoons prepared horseradish

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

BRING first 3 ingredients to a boil, stirring often, in a saucepan over medium-high heat; add cranberries.

RETURN mixture to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer, stirring often, 10 minutes or until cranberry skins begin to pop and mixture begins to thicken. Remove from heat.

STIR in preserves, horseradish, and mustard; remove pan from heat, and let sauce cool. Cover and chill until ready to serve.

NOTE: Sauce may be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to two weeks.

SPICY-SWEET SMOKED TURKEY BREAST

MAKES 16 SERVINGS

PREP: 10 MIN., SOAK: 1 HR., SMOKE: 6 HRS., STAND: 10 MIN.

Hickory wood chunks

2 tablespoons coarsely ground pepper

2 (6-pound) bone-in turkey breasts*

2 (5-ounce) bottles sweet pepper sauce

SOAK wood chunks in water 1 hour. Prepare charcoal fire in smoker; let burn 20 to 25 minutes.

RUB pepper evenly over turkey breasts. Pour sauce evenly over breasts.

DRAIN wood chunks, and place on coals. Place water pan in smoker; add water to depth of fill line. Place turkey breasts side by side on upper food grate; cover with smoker lid.

SMOKE 5 to 6 hours or until a meat thermometer inserted into thickest portion registers 170°, adding additional water to depth of fill line, if necessary. Remove from smoker; let stand 10 minutes before slicing.

JOAN HARTSON

NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA

*2 (6-pound) fully cooked or fully cooked smoked bone-in turkey breasts may be substituted. Proceed as directed, reducing smoking time to 1 hour or until thoroughly heated.

NOTE: For testing purposes only, we used Pickapeppa Sauce.

SHRIMP-AND-HAM STUFFED MIRLITONS

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

PREP: 40 MIN., COOK: 45 MIN., BAKE.: 20 MIN.

This was adapted from The Plantation Cookbook by the junior League of New Orleans.

4 large mirlitons

1 pound unpeeled, medium shrimp

1/3 cup minced onion

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

4 green onions, chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons bacon drippings

8 ounces cooked ham, coarsely chopped

1 ¼ cup soft breadcrumbs, divided

1 tablespoon Creole seasoning

1 large egg, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons butter, melted

BRING mirlitons and water to cover to a boil in a Dutch oven; boil 25 to 30 minutes or until tender.

PEEL shrimp, and devein, if desired. Set shrimp aside.

DRAIN and cool mirlitons. Cut in half lengthwise; remove seeds, and discard. Scoop out pulp, leaving ½-inch-thick shells; chop pulp.

SAUTE onion and next 3 ingredients in hot bacon drippings 3 minutes. Add shrimp and ham; cook, stirring constantly, 3 to 5 minutes or until shrimp turn pink. Stir in mirliton pulp, ¾ cup breadcrumbs, and Creole seasoning; cook, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes. Let cool slightly; stir in egg. Stuff mirliton mixture evenly into mirliton shells.

STIR together remaining ½ cup breadcrumbs and butter. Sprinkle evenly over stuffed mirlitons. Place in a lightly greased 13- x 9-inch baking dish.

BAKE at 375° for 15 to 20 minutes or until lightly browned.