Great Praline Search, The

Sugar, pecans, milk, butter, and vanilla combine to form the most perfect candy in the South. Who makes the best?

Sometimes my job is sweet. Literally. After sampling some of the most famous pralines in New Orleans, I decided to have my own little unscientific taste test to find out which candymaker's product would claim the title of confection perfection. To this end, I enlisted my family, who were only too happy to jump in with both teeth. All the companies listed here will ship their products. Enjoy our scrumptious results by ordering some of these tasty treats for your very own experiment.

Aunt Sally's

Begun in the 1930s, this New Orleans favorite still makes 2.5 million pralines each year in copper pots, pouring them out onto marble to cool into heavenly circles of delight. Their Decatur Street shop offers up original and the deadly triple-chocolate pralines ($1.55 each), along with toasted pecan syrup ($7), praline pecans ($8.49), and gift baskets that you can buy complete or customize yourself (starting at $25). As you're trying to decide how much to buy, check out the sign on the wall: "Eat Aunt Sally's Pralines.. .they will make you smarter." I'll munch to that. 810 Decatur Street; 1-800-642-7257 or www.auntsallys.com.

Evans Creole Candy Factory

Also located on Decatur Street, this sugary business has been around since 1900, pouring out sweetness in several flavors. Watch the candy being made; then get a large box of assorted pralines ($ 13.95), which includes original, creamy chocolate, creamy maple, and creamy rum. Pick up a coconut or peanut butter praline to complete the sampling. 848 Decatur Street; (504) 522-7111, 1-800-637-6675, or www. evanscreolecandy. com.

Tee-E va's

Down Magazine Street you'll find Tee-Eva's colorful storefront, where this one-woman operation dishes up soul food, pralines, pecan and sweet potato pies, and the best snowballs you're likely to find anywhere. She makes the pralines ($1.25) in small batches by hand, and they have that wonderful, grainy crunch. While you're here, grab a snowball ($1.25 to $2; she has two dozen flavors). Her daily hot lunches include fried catfish, red beans and rice, and a killer jambalaya ($3 to $6). 4430 Magazine Street; (504) 899-8350 or www.tee-eva.net.

Kate Letter's Candy Company

This is another long-standing, tried-and-true candy company, established in 1928. Though the business makes its home in Metairie-a suburb of New Orleans-you can purchase the candy in most of the gift shops in the Big Easy. Pick up a 16-ounce box of original Creole pralines made with pure Louisiana cane sugar ($11). We found good flavor and consistency. 2608 L&A Road, Metairie, LA; 1-800-825-5359 or www. katelatterscandy.com.

Southern Candymakers

This Decatur Street confectionery offers up some good, pure, and simple creamy pralines with a chewy texture. Buy just a single (about $1.50), or indulge in a 1-pound box ($15.95). And I dare you to leave without trying one of the milk chocolate, doubled-dipped tortues (turtles). They're also $15.95 for a 1-pound box. 334 Decatur Street; (504) 523-5544, 1-800-344-9773, or www.southerncandymakers. com.

Loretta's

You'll find this oasis of sweetness right in the middle of the French Market, where Loretta offers up goodness in the form of plain, peanut butter, and Heavenly Hash pralines ($1.36 each). If you can't decide, purchase a sampler box ($15). IlOO North Peters, Stall 17, Historic French Market; (504) 529-6170 or www.lorettas pralines.com.

New Orleans Famous Praline Company

This one-stop-shopping kind of place features everything from pralines and other Creole candies to Louisiana hot sauces and Cajun music CDs. The pralines have a good molasses flavor. 300 Royal Street; (504) 525-3370, 1-888-438-2115, or www.neworleans pralines.com.

Laura's Candies

One of the oldest candy stores in New Orleans, Laura's has two locations. Pick up a box of 12 pralines for $16, or try the chocolate-and-pecan fudge ($15.95). The New Orleans Sampler, which includes 1 pound of Mississippi Mud, 1 pound of assorted chocolates, and 12 Creole pralines is $39.95. 938 Royal Street, (504) 524-9259; or 331 Chartres Street, (504) 525-3880 or www. laurascandies. com.

The winner? Aunt Sally's, pans down. The consistency, creaminess, and cane-sugar goodness make her pralines the perfect confection.

WANDA MCKINNEY

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Oct 2004
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