The killing fields of Cambodia: an Englishman's impression

On 17 April 1975, the Khmer Rouge guerrillas filed into Phnom Penh, signalling the start of a reign of terror which would devastate an ancient culture and cause the death of over 2 million Cambodians in just 3 years. The figures speak for themselves: killing sites (343), mass graves (19,440), genocide memorials (77), security prisons (167). Although in many ways thought-provoking and disturbing places to visit, S-21 and Choeng Ek are a "must" on every conscientious travel photographer's itinerary, and in my opinion, should not to be missed.

Security Prison S-21

I visited the former $21 Prison complex twice during my stay in Phnom Penh, on both occasions from noon to 4 p.m. Lighting conditions were from overcast/hazy to bright sunshine, with variable cloud cover to almost clear blue sky. My choice of film stock was deliberately limited to Fuji Velvia slide film. I find that this gives me a good range of saturated colors and enables me to capture the variable contrast between brightly lit areas and deep shadows, yet retain a warmth in the stonework of buildings.

The sheer suburban ordinariness of what was Tuol Svay Prey High School in 1973 belies its sinister use during the Pol Pot Regime, 1976-1979. It was taken over by the Security Forces and turned into a detention and torture center, the largest in Cambodia, and became known as the infamous Security Prison S-21. It covers an area of 600 x 400 meters and during the Khmer Rouge Regime was enclosed by electrified barbed wire fences. The houses in the compound were used as offices for administration, interrogation and torture. Classrooms were converted into prison cells, some individual, others for multiple occupancy.

The victims in the prison were taken from all parts of the country and all walks of life. Although the vast majority were from Cambodia, they were also drawn from many other nations; Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, India, Pakistan, United Kingdom, France, USA, Canada, New Zealand and Australia. The prison could accommodate up to 1500 prisoners at a time and who were held for usually between 2-4 months.

Each prisoner who passed through S-21 was photographed; the museum displays many of these together with instruments of torture. There are several large paintings by one of only seven survivors found alive by the Vietnamese Army when they liberated Phnom Penh in early 1979. Within the compound, there are 14 graves; those prisoners who were tortured to death on the very day the Vietnamese Army relieved Phnom Penh.

As I walked around the compound, I could not fail to be moved by the poignancy of the place. Each building had its own uniqueness. The metal beds, the manacles, the pictures of the last occupants, the paraphernalia of torture, and the rows of cells conjured up a picture of the unbearable hardship that the inmates must have endured. Man's inhumanity to man! And then, as if to take a breath of fresh air outside the buildings, I was overwhelmed with the pungent aroma of the frangipani flowers.

CHOENG EK Genocide Center

There was only one window of opportunity during our stay in Phnom Penh in which to visit the Choeng Ek Genocide Center. Fortunately this was during mid to late afternoon on a bright sunny day, which matched well my choice of Fuji Velvia film stock.

During the Pol Pot Regime, some 17,000 prisoners, detained and tortured at S-21, were taken to the Extermination Camp at Choeng Ek, 15km (approximately 9.3 miles) from Phnom Penh, to be executed. Driving through the entrance, I was overcome by a chilling feeling and sense of foreboding as I looked up at the sign above the entrance archway--"Choeng Ek Genocide Center."

The site is very well laid out for visitors and a gazebo near the entrance provides a textual and photographic history of the site. As I wandered around the various paths, there was the evidence of the mass graves, some excavated, and others left untouched. Some were covered with thatched structures; others marked with simple wooden carved signs--"Mass Grave."

Much of my spare time at the moment is taken up with my studies for a Master of Arts Degree in Photography at De Montfort University, Leicester. $21 and Choeng Ek made such a profound impression on me, that for one of my early assignments, I decided to undertake a critical survey and analysis of "the moment of death" photographs in war photography. This was based on the life of Robert Capa, war photo-journalist, in which I argued inter alia that the form, action and emotion of his images had no distractions and the message was clear in its vivid simplicity. They had a timeless and universal quality that transcended the specifics of history. Such were my memories of Cambodia.

As we travelled through Cambodia, I could not fail to notice how few people there were over 50 years of age. As a 60-year old backpacker, I found the term "Pappa" quite endearing. Despite the traumatic events of recent years, which have had an overwhelming impact on almost every family in Cambodia, the Cambodian people remain so very warm and friendly.