Cheesecake: not just for dessert anymore

TRADITIONAL CHEESECAKES ARE USUALLY DECADENT desserts that combine a graham cracker crust and a filling similar in texture to custard. But why wait until after dinner to dig into a scrumptious slice? Savory cheesecakes can make intriguing appetizers and robust entrees. Creative chefs can find many ways to incorporate cheesecakes into any course of any meal.

Vegan cheesecake is pretty easy to prepare, actually easier than dairy-and-egg cheesecake. Tofu has the perfect texture for baked and no-bake cheesecakes, and it doesn't cause the worries involved with dairy cheese, which may not melt well and might burn. Vegan cheesecake can mean very little work or an afternoon in the kitchen, depending on your time and level of interest.

If you'd like to make cheesecake from scratch, you have lots of options. From the recipes in this article, you can see that tofu, vegan sour cream, and vegan cream cheese all make excellent substitutes for dairy ingredients. If you are a stickler for tradition, authentic cheesecakes contain cream cheese, which is how they got the name 'cheesecake.' However, you'll find that cheesecakes don't always miss the cream cheese.

Don't have the time or inclination to make a cheesecake from scratch? There are no-bake, no-fuss cheesecake mixes available, complete with everything you need to make the crust and the filling. For example, Dixie Diner (<www.dixiediner.com>) sells a vegan cheesecake mix. All you have to do is add vegan margarine to the graham cracker mixture and pat it into a pie pan. The filling mixture, which is like making instant pudding, requires the soy or rice milk of your choice. Add the milk to the mix, stir, pour it into the pie shell, and chill until firm.

If you can't find a vegan mix, purchase a pre-made vegan graham cracker crust pie shell. In a blender, combine soft silken tofu, vegan sour cream, a package of your favorite vegan pudding mix, and a little orange zest. If needed, add some sweetener; orange juice concentrate or maple syrup work well. Process until smooth. Pour the mixture into the pie shell, refrigerate, and allow cheesecake to cool until firm.

SWEET VERSUS SAVORY

When people think of cheesecakes, the sweet varieties usually come to mind. They are available in many different flavors, usually involving fruit, nuts, and sweet tastes. Chocolate and caramel are common additions. Sweet cheesecakes can reflect the season, with pureed pumpkin, cinnamon, and nutmeg for autumn cheesecakes or crushed mint candy for winter cheesecakes. Garnishes of seasonal fruit offer year-round enjoyment.

However, cheesecake lends itself equally well to savory flavors. There are smoky cheesecakes made with soy sauce and vegan 'ground round,' chili cheesecakes, and many others. I have even had a vegan version of Emeril Lagasse's lobster cheesecake.

Savory cheesecakes are prepared just like their sweet counterparts. Served as flavorful entrees, savory cheesecakes start with a tofu 'custard' base, and sauteed or stir-fried vegetables, herbs, and/or spice blends are added. Mushrooms, chilies, bell peppers, onions, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, kale, basil, and spinach are popular choices. Vegan sausage; crumbled, flavored seiten or tempeh; smoked tofu; vegan 'ground round'; and Tofurky[TM] also blend very well into a savory cheesecake.

For a savory cheesecake, you'll want to bake a pie shell and let it cool. Then, you can start on the filling. In a blender or food processor, combine soft silken tofu, vegan sour cream, and a little vegan cream cheese to create your base. If you feel ambitious, mince and saute a combination of onions, garlic, bell peppers, chilies, sun-dried tomatoes, and fresh herbs. Allow to cool slightly and blend into your tofu mixture. Season the mixture with ground pepper, oregano, thyme, rosemary, or your choice of spices. If you'd like a little more color or 'zing,' blend a small amount of tomato puree into the tofu mixture. You can also add garlic paste, olive paste (finely chopped or pureed olives), or finely chopped parsley or cilantro. Pour your mixture into the pre-baked crust and allow it to set in the refrigerator for approximately 2 hours. This makes a refreshing cold entree or appetizer.

Serve savory cheesecakes as appetizers or as hot or cold entrees. Savory cheesecakes can be baked and then reheated in an oven or a microwave as needed. They do freeze well, so make them ahead and reheat as needed. Consider a wedge of savory cheesecake, paired with a crisp green salad and poached dried or fresh fruit for a simple yet elegant meal.

CRUSTS

Different types of crust may be used for sweet cheesecake to make it more special. Vegan wafers in chocolate or vanilla varieties may be substituted for the graham crackers traditionally used in cheesecake crust, or the crust can be made from crumbled cookies. Ginger snaps also work well.

For savory cheesecakes, you may want to use a traditional pie crust. If you'd like to get inventive, you can use crushed matzo (not matzo meal) in place of graham crackers and dried onions (or a dried vegetable mixture) in place of the sugar in a graham cracker crust mix.