The charms of Charleston: with a resolute history and a passion for preservation, this harbor town is a photogenic time capsule of its colonial and antebellum past - City Of The Month

AS ONE OF THOSE PLACES THAT CAPTIVATES THE IMAGINATION, Charleston, South Carolina, works at protecting its signature scenery of grand homes fronted by wide piazzas, Caribbean-hued townhouses, graceful wrought-iron gates, soaring steeples, palmetto trees, and horse-drawn carriages. Since 1783, when it dropped Charles Towne for Charleston, this peninsular city has lived by the motto "She guards her customs, buildings and laws." So, despite 333 years of wars, earthquakes, and hurricanes, Charleston retains more than 1,400 historically significant buildings, making it one of the most complete and intact historic districts in America. In fact, the preservation efforts of Charlestonians have often set an example for the rest of the country.

Preserving her freedoms set her squarely in the fray with England, although her role in that war is often given short shrift, according to our "Patriots' Walk" guide, Sherrie Zabinski of Original Charleston Walks. As a 12th-generation French Huguenot, she is fiercely proud of her city's contributions. starting with religious freedom during colonial times. With so many denominations building edifices, the sobriquet "Holy City" has stuck to this day. The most recognizable is also the oldest, St. Michael's Episcopal, in use since 1761. Located at the Four Corners of Law, its steeple has served as a navigational landmark, an observation post during military conflicts, and even a fire lookout.

Across from St. Michael's stands the center of city government since 1818, an imposing Adamesque-styled building constructed between 1800-1804. Sherrie took us into the second-floor Council Chamber where 100 years of mayoral portraits command attention, along with the likenesses of early U.S. presidents, Revolutionary War heroes, Pierre G.T. Beauregard (who commanded the firing on Fort Sumter), and 1940s civil rights activist Miss Septima Clark.

Walking tours, all with guides licensed by the city, cover numerous topics, ghosts being among the most popular. With ours emphasizing the American Revolution, Sherrie led us to some of the oldest residences, including the Georgian home at 92 Broad of David Ramsey, a surgeon in the Continental Armies who was imprisoned by the British. The houses of John and Edward Rutledge, signers of the Constitution and Declaration of Independence respectively, face each other across Broad and now are bed and breakfasts.

As we strolled along the Battery, overlooking the harbor that made Charleston a prosperous port, Sherrie told about the Battle of Sullivan's Island, where an outnumbered and outgunned militia, commanded by Col. Wm. Moultrie, turned away the British fleet on June 28, 1776. Turned out the sand-packed palmetto logs of Fort Sullivan were shellproof! The Fort Moultrie built in 1809 is part of today's Fort Sumter National Monument. Restored to show the roles it played in seacoast defenses until 1947, it is worth the drive to Sullivan's Island, from where you might enjoy cruising the neighboring Isle of Palms beach community. Once outside the city, you might want to veer off for a half-day exploration of Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum, dominated by the aircraft carrier Yorktown.

We ended our walk at the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon, considered the third most important colonial building in America. Here pirates and patriots were chained to basement walls. Children will be especially interested in the pirate lore, including the story of gentleman pirate Stede Bonnet, who was hung "along with dozens of his crew in 1718. On the main floor, hero William Moultrie's waistcoat is on display, and from the second-floor's elegant Great Hall is an impressive view of Broad Street.

We were glad Sherrie suggested we lunch at Brent's on Broad, frequented by local professionals for the friendly service and reasonable prices. Another crowd-pleaser is the Sweetwater Cafe at 137 Market Street, where red vinyl booths and rock 'n' roll legends carry the decor and the menu. On our own, we made our way to the Powder Magazine, the oldest public building in South Carolina. Built in 1713, it stored gun powder for the city's defenses and now functions as a history museum.

Several magnificent house museums communicate Charleston's story by focusing on the prestige of its wealthiest citizens. At the Charleston Museum, founded in 1773 as America's first museum but now housed in a modern facility, the story unfolds in greater detail, starring pirates (of course), plantations, and patriots. Exhibits and two videos reveal the cultivation practices "When Rice was King." The entire industry was imported from the windward coast of Africa, including rice farmers forced into slavery. Rice-farmers are among the collectible baskets made of native sweetgrass, another skill brought from Africa, and sold at the City Market, the Four Corners of Law, and in stands along U.S. 17.

Charleston is probably best known for the opening event of the Civil War, the Confederate bombardment of Fort Sumter in Charleston Harbor. The boat ride to the massive brick structure features an unforgettable panorama of the city. Cruises depart from a dock at the National Park Service Visitor Education Center, where exhibits outline the roots of the Civil War. Next door is the South Carolina Aquarium, with river otters, sharks, jellyfish, and other creatures common to the state's waters.