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Vegetarian Times, March, 2000 by Valerie Latona
FACE FORWARD: Our faces get the brunt of the elements--sun exposure, wind and pollution--making exfoliation that much more important. Faces will show the benefits of exfoliation first; a smooth and rosy complexion is the most noticeable sign of a healthy person. "Exfoliation helps boost circulation," says Sethi. "That makes a big difference in our appearance." But exfoliators also help cleansers, moisturizers and toners work more effectively by unblocking the pores, which are then able to absorb other products more effectively, explains Sethi.
These days many products contain AHAs or BHAs--especially cleansers, moisturizers, and day/night creams. Newburger recommends using products with AHA or BHA concentrations of 10 percent or less to minimize possible side effects from exfoliating too much skin too quickly. Higher concentrations (up to 70 percent) can be used in intense, five-to-10-minute peels that help jump-start skin turnover; they're offered only by dermatologists because they sometimes cause extreme skin reactions. Some redness and irritation after these more intense peels are a given and usually last for up to 48 hours.
Because of their conservative concentration of acids, over-the-counter peels are safe to use once a day, either in the morning or night, says Newburger. (If a product doesn't list a concentration, assume, it to be less than 10 percent.) The one drawback is that regular use can leave the skin more sensitive to sunlight and more prone to sunburns. "The dead outer layer of skin that's being removed acts as a natural sunscreen," explains Newburger. "With less of that layer you're more susceptible to sunburn and, it's thought, to skin cancers." That's why it's important to use a sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 15 under makeup every day.
For an easy, gentle exfoliator, try adding about one tablespoon of raw oatmeal to your normal moisturizer and massaging it into your face, suggests Sian Rees, author of Natural Home Spa (Sterling, 1999). Use circular movements and after five minutes rinse with cold water.
BODY AND SOLE: Just as important as exfoliating the face is exfoliating the whole body, including rough areas like the elbows, knees and soles of the feet. But since the body isn't as exposed to the elements the way the face is, you don't have to do it every day. Shaving isn't generally regarded as an exfoliation method, but technically it is, as is lathering yourself briskly with a washcloth in the shower, says Newburger. But if your skin is dry or flaky, you may need to speed up the exfoliation process with a loofah, dry brush or grainy scrubs in the shower or by applying an AHA- or BHA-based moisturizer afterward. For elbows and knees, rub with the inside of a fresh avocado peel. Besides the fact that it's slightly abrasive, its oil contains vitamins A, D and E, which condition and moisturize the skin. Pumice stones used with a grainy scrub or even pumice-powder-based scrubs can help keep the bottoms of feet smooth. For best results, soak feet in warm water before treating to soften hardened skin.