Desserts with lasting appeal - Recipe

Creamy persimmon tart, cranberry charlotte, chestnut torte, and pumpkin pots de creme are worth the wait

Thanksgiving turkey with all the trimmings is a tough act to follow. Any dessert, after such a feast, has to have plenty of pizzazz to get attention. Plus, on this particular day, a dessert must also resonate with tradition. And in many households, it has to have the wherewithal to travel to family gatherings, indoors or out (see page 118).

These four desserts, with their variations, flu the bill in every way. Each is notably handsome, but you don't have to be a pro to make them look good. Each takes a traditional flavor one step beyond expectation: golden persimmons in a gleaming tart, cranberries in a light and luscious charlotte, mellow chestnuts in a chocolate-cloaked torte, and petite pumpkins filled with velvety custards (a fresh cross between pot de creme and pumpkin pie). All can be made at least a day ahead and need only to be kept cool and secure to travel for hours at a time. Best of all, they can hold until "later," when the bird has settled and there's a little room for something special.

Persimmon Cream Tart

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 15 minutes

NOTES: If making up to 1 day ahead, invert a large bowl over tart on a plate to protect fruit and keep dessert airtight; chill.

MAKES: 8 to 10 servings

2 packages (8 oz. each) neufchatel (light cream) or cream cheese, at room temperature

1/2 cup orange marmalade Butter crust (recipe follows)

3 Fuyu persimmons (about 3/4 lb. total)

1. In a bowl with a mixer, beat cheese and 6 tablespoons marmalade until well blended. Spoon into cool, baked butter crust and spread evenly.

2. Rinse, stem, and peel persimmons, then cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick wedges; discard any seeds. Lay fruit slices in concentric circles on cheese filling, slightly overlapping slices.

3. Put remaining marmalade in a glass measuring cup. Heat in a microwave oven on full power (100%) until melted, about 1 minute, stirring several times. Gently brush melted marmalade over persimmon slices.

4. Remove pan rim and cut tart into wedges.

Per serving: 360 cal., 53% (189 cal.) from fat; 6.8 g protein; 21 g fat (13 g sat.); 39 g carbo (0.4 g fiber); 285 mg sodium; 81 mg chol.

Butter Crust

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 35 minutes

NOTES: If making up to 1 day ahead, wrap cool crust airtight and let stand at room temperature.

MAKES: 1 crust; 8 to 10 servings

1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) butter or margarine, cut into chunks

1 large egg yolk

1. In a food processor or a bowl, combine flour and sugar. Add butter; whirl or rub with your fingers until fine crumbs form. Add egg yolk; whirl or mix with a fork until dough sticks together. Pat into a ball.

2. Press dough over bottom and up sides, flush with rim, of a 10- to 10 1/2-inch tart pan with removable rim.

3. Bake in a 300 [degrees] oven until golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes (25 to 30 minutes in a convection oven); let cool.

Per crust .serving: 167 cal., 53% (89 cal.) from fat; 2.1 g protein; 9.9 g fat (5.9 g sat.); 18 g carbo (0.4 g fiber); 95 mg sodium; 46 mg chol.

Cranberry-Raspberry Charlotte

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes, plus at least 4 hours to chill

NOTES: If making up to 1 day ahead, cover and chill. Garnish with fresh raspberries or cranberries, plain or sugared. To sugar, dip berries in beaten egg white, then sugar, and dry on a rack at least 15 minutes. If you're concerned about raw egg whites, use dried pasteurized egg whites, available in most supermarkets; reconstitute them according to package directions. Look for a charlotte mold in specialty cook-ware stores, or use a souffle dish.

MAKES: 8 servings

12 to 14 double ladyfingers (about 3 oz. total)

1/4 cup kirsch or other cherry-flavor liqueur, or orange juice

1 3/4 cups cranberries, fresh or frozen

1 3/4 cups raspberries, fresh or unsweetened frozen

1 cup sugar

1 envelope unflavored gelatin

2 large egg whites

3/4 cup whipping cream

1. Smoothly line a 1 1/2-quart charlotte mold (about 6 in. wide at top, 5 in. at bottom, 3 1/2 in. tall) or 1 1/2-quart souffle dish with plastic wrap. Separate ladyfingers so each is flat on 1 side. Arrange a single layer of ladyfingers, rounded side down, in pan bottom; cut to a point at 1 end as needed to make them fit neatly into pan and to cover bottom completely. Stand remaining ladyfingers vertically, rounded side against pan, to cover sides of container. Lightly brush with 2 tablespoons kirsch.

2. Sort cranberries (thaw, if frozen) and discard bruised or decayed fruit. Rinse and drain cranberries and fresh raspberries (thaw frozen raspberries). In a blender, whirl cranberries, raspberries, and 3/4 cup sugar until smooth. Rub puree through a fine strainer into a bowl.

3. In a 2- to 3-quart microwave-safe bowl, sprinkle gelatin over 1/4 cup water. Let soften about 5 minutes. Heat in a microwave oven at full power (100%) until mixture boils and is clear, 30 to 40 seconds. Add 1 cup berry puree and mix well. Nest bowl of berry-gelatin mixture in ice water and stir occasionally until it becomes very thick and syrupy, 5 to 10 minutes. If mixture gets firm, nest bowl in hot water and stir until syrupy.