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Doing the Charleston - Charleston, South Carolina

Vegetarian Times, May, 1999 by Kathy Baruffi

This Southern city's surprising cuisine will have you dancing for joy

At more than 300 years old, Charleston is one of the jewels of the Old South. Serene and unhurried, South Carolina's largest coastal city (population 96,000) has survived two wars, an earthquake (in 1886), slave uprisings and centuries of hurricanes. The once-bellicose "cradle of secession" witnessed the first shots of the Civil War fired in its harbor but today is a peaceful college town. The Medical University of South Carolina, the Citadel and the College of Charleston are just a few of its venerable institutions.

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Revolutionary tendencies live on, however, in the restaurant kitchens of this vibrant exemplar of the New South. In the hands of Charleston's able and adventurous chefs, traditional dishes like grits and sweet potatoes take on delightful new identities with creative flavoring and presentation. There are more than 150 eating establishments in the city, ranging from modest sandwich shops to restaurants offering haute cuisine. Not surprisingly, competition among eateries is fierce, which is good news for diners, who can eat very well without breaking the bank.

The city's many quaint streets are still paved with cobblestones that once served as Colonial ships' ballast. A stroll through the 1,000-acre historic district is like walking through a living museum. Here, you are enveloped by the fragrance of jasmine and tea olive trees--especially in spring

As you explore, you'll hear the bells of St. Michael's Episcopal Church, the city's oldest house of worship, chime hourly. Back in Colonial days, the bells were rung defiantly, in protest of the Stamp Act of 1765, and were promptly confiscated by British soldiers. The bells were later purchased by a private citizen and returned to the church. During the Civil War, the bells were shipped off for safekeeping to the state capital, Columbia, where they just missed being melted down and molded into cannons.

Charleston itself escaped the Union troops' rampage at the end of the Civil War. The financial devastation that followed, however, left the city frozen in time. While other urban centers were tearing down old buildings to construct new ones, Charleston could not afford to do so. Eventually the historic value of these structures was recognized, and in 1931, Charlestonians pioneered the first historic preservation legislation in the country. New construction and renovation have been closely monitored by the city and preservationists ever since.

BY BICYCLE-TAXI, BUS OR FOOT

The town is easy to navigate because traffic is not a problem. You can even grab a Charleston Rickshaw Company bicycle-taxi for an eco-friendly ride to your destination. Because the weather is generally mild here, the open-air ride is pleasant.

Charleston Transit Authority runs public buses throughout the city, as well as the short-hop DASH system. (Buy an all-day pass.) The DASH buses resemble trolleys and depart from the Visitor Center, taking travelers on short jaunts, such as an excursion to The Market further down Meeting Street, where 19th-century brick buildings house farmers and trinket vendors. Outside, you'll find craftspeople weaving traditional sweetgrass baskets. This art form, which originated in Africa, has been passed on from generation to generation.

The Pinckney Cafe just two blocks north of The Market on Pinckney Street, is a quaint little clapboard house that's been converted into a restaurant. Although indoor seating is limited, tables are set up on the porch. There are plenty of veg choices, but the black bean burrito is the cafe's signature dish. Another dependable staple is the veggie sandwich, with sauteed vegetables, melted Swiss cheese and creamy basil sauce.

For a less casual dining experience, visit the Charleston Grill, which is located in the Charleston Place Hotel, right in the heart of the historic district. The luxury hotel helped revitalize the downtown and offers surprisingly affordable rates. Its elegant marbled lobby, featuring a huge Venetian chandelier, opens into an arcade of chic shops.

You'll want to get dressed up to visit the Charleston Grill, not because it's required, but because it's so special. When you call for reservations, which are recommended, mention that you'll be ordering a vegetarian meal. That way, the staff will have more time to fuss over you. And fuss they will. Chef Bob Waggoner is passionate about food and has reached the enviable point in his career where he can give his creativity free rein. Fresh asparagus in a Chardonnay lime and artichoke reduction sauce, tender Baby Lola Rosa lettuce salad with blue cheese, marinated shiitakes and roasted hazelnuts in a sweet port and rosemary sauce, lemony grits, snap peas scented with juniper or celery potato puree are just a sampling of what his menu offers.

Desserts here are veritable works of art. Crunchy praline mousse and espresso crime brulee are presented in edible demitasses, and a selection of homemade ice creams and sorbets replicates an artist's palette. The wine list features 250 labels, including a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir bottled exclusively for the restaurant by California's Au Bon Climat vineyard.

Doing the Charleston - Charleston, South Carolina

Vegetarian Times, May, 1999 by Kathy Baruffi

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